a5:bed-levelling-probe
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a5:bed-levelling-probe [2019/04/03 08:18] – cs2000 | a5:bed-levelling-probe [2019/04/07 13:17] – [Initial Considerations] samuelpinches | ||
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- | ==== IR Probe Bed Surface Compatibility==== | ||
- | For best results, the sensor needs to sense the reflection of the IR beam from the top surface of the bed. There is a potential problem when the sensor is used with a transparent bed material that reflects infrared light weakly and there is a surface below the transparent material that reflects IR much more strongly. | ||
- | **Glass (with or without coatings such as hairspray, PVA or Kapton tape):** Works as-is if placed directly on a PCB bed heater or other surface that does not reflect strongly. If there is an aluminium heat spreader or bed plate underneath the glass, then either paint the aluminium surface matt black as suggested above, or put a sheet of matt black paper between | + | =====Initial Considerations===== |
+ | From my testing and learning | ||
- | **PEI:** this is highly transparent | + | ==== Levelling the X Axis ==== |
+ | | ||
+ | - To correct/ | ||
+ | - If the measurements are out, turn the printer off and use your hand to manually move the threaded rod couplers to move one side up or down. It doesn' | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Print Surface ==== | ||
+ | More detail on this is below, but the quick detail is the A5's glass bed is NOT suitable for an IR probe on its own. Glass is a poor reflector of IR light and the Black diamond build surface interferes with the reflection pattern. I would HEAVILLY advise you but a good surface such as PrintBite, I have had amazing consistence with this. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Z Axis Friction ==== | ||
+ | Whatever lubricant JGAurora use on the threaded rods lifting the Z axis is utter garbage. After only 3 weeks, the stuff on my rods had turned all sticky meaning the //tiny// movements the printer has to do were not being performed correctly. This manifested itself in what sounded like a grinding noise coming from both of the Z axis steppers. I would recommend checking yours moves freely, and if youre concerned, clean the old stuff off and replace | ||
+ | |||
+ | The reason for this is if the motors turn enough | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | =====IR Probe Bed Surface Compatibility===== | ||
+ | In order for this to work, the sensor needs to " | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Glass (with or without coatings | ||
+ | |||
+ | **PEI:** NOT compatible | ||
- | **BuildTak: | + | **BuildTak: |
**PrintBite: | **PrintBite: | ||
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**Anodised aluminium, with or without PEI coating:** suitable if the finish is matt or semi-matt. | **Anodised aluminium, with or without PEI coating:** suitable if the finish is matt or semi-matt. | ||
- | **Bright Aluminium: | + | **Bright Aluminium: |
- | **Mirror: | + | **Mirror: |
**Other/Not Listed:** You will have to check yourself if your surface is transparent to IR light, an easy way to do this is with a standard TV remote control.Place your hand in front of the remote control to block the infrared signal and verify that the remote control no longer controls the TV. (Don’t wrap your hand over the front of the remote control). If the remote control still works, you may be too near the TV, you may need to back away and try blocking again. In that case, you'll need to repeat step 1 to verify the remote control works at the farther distance when it isn’t blocked. | **Other/Not Listed:** You will have to check yourself if your surface is transparent to IR light, an easy way to do this is with a standard TV remote control.Place your hand in front of the remote control to block the infrared signal and verify that the remote control no longer controls the TV. (Don’t wrap your hand over the front of the remote control). If the remote control still works, you may be too near the TV, you may need to back away and try blocking again. In that case, you'll need to repeat step 1 to verify the remote control works at the farther distance when it isn’t blocked. | ||
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- | ==== How-To Install IR Probe ==== | + | =====How-To Install IR Probe ===== |
Steve Wagg has put together an EXCELLENT [[https:// | Steve Wagg has put together an EXCELLENT [[https:// | ||
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- | ==== Full Firmware & Hardware Modification Guide ==== | + | =====Full Firmware & Hardware Modification Guide ===== |
- | === What to Buy? === | + | =====What to Buy? ===== |
Infrared sensor - [[https:// | Infrared sensor - [[https:// | ||
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Or, you'll need you own wire and either DuPont connectors or a 3pin JST Plug and tools to wire this up. | Or, you'll need you own wire and either DuPont connectors or a 3pin JST Plug and tools to wire this up. | ||
- | === Firmware Edits === | + | |
+ | =====Firmware Edits ===== | ||
Since this is what frightens most people, lets start here.\\ | Since this is what frightens most people, lets start here.\\ | ||
* Grab a fresh copy of Marlin 1.1.8c from Sams repository http:// | * Grab a fresh copy of Marlin 1.1.8c from Sams repository http:// | ||
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+ | OPTIONAL - SLOWS DOWN PROBES FOR MORE ACCURACY | ||
**Line 717**\\ | **Line 717**\\ | ||
Original | Original | ||
< | < | ||
Change To | Change To | ||
- | < | + | < |
+ | OPTIONAL - SLOWS DOWN PROBES FOR MORE ACCURACY | ||
**Line 722**\\ | **Line 722**\\ | ||
Original | Original | ||
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- | === The Glass Bed === | + | =====The Glass Bed ===== |
The original developer of these mini IR boards has specifically said he designed it to work on glass, which it does but I guess since the original design with ever smaller layer heights on todays 3D printers, the deviation is just unacceptable. Youtuber Thomas Sanladerer ran tests on this sensor and found a deviation of 20 micros, or 0.02mm which is one layer height [[https:// | The original developer of these mini IR boards has specifically said he designed it to work on glass, which it does but I guess since the original design with ever smaller layer heights on todays 3D printers, the deviation is just unacceptable. Youtuber Thomas Sanladerer ran tests on this sensor and found a deviation of 20 micros, or 0.02mm which is one layer height [[https:// | ||
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- | === Hardware Changes === | + | =====Hardware Changes |
- If you've purchased a pre-made cable, you can skip these steps; | - If you've purchased a pre-made cable, you can skip these steps; | ||
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- | === Setup and Testing === | + | =====Setup and Testing |
Now the hard parts are done, you need to complete the setup of the IR sensor and do some testing, so lets continue. | Now the hard parts are done, you need to complete the setup of the IR sensor and do some testing, so lets continue. | ||
- | |||
- | - First, we need be sure that your Z axis carriage is actually level. As the A5 uses two steppers and two threaded rods to hold the " carriage in place, this can get out of alignment so one side can be higher than than the other. | ||
- | - To correct/ | ||
- | - If the measurements are out, turn the printer off and use your hand to manually move the threaded rod couplers to manually move one side up or down. It doesn' | ||
- Turn on the printer and using the LCD or a GCODE console such as Pronterface, | - Turn on the printer and using the LCD or a GCODE console such as Pronterface, | ||
- Use the LCD in the MOVE menu and Move Z down slowly (0.01mm steps) until the probe triggers. This is when the red LED light comes on. | - Use the LCD in the MOVE menu and Move Z down slowly (0.01mm steps) until the probe triggers. This is when the red LED light comes on. | ||
- | - Take the current Z value on the screen and negate it. (so a value shown of 1.6 becomes -1.6), this is the offset between your print Nozzle and the sensor height. | + | - Take the current Z value on the printers LCD screen and negate it. (so a value shown of 1.6 becomes -1.6), this is the offset between your print Nozzle and the sensor height. |
- | - You may find the nozzle wont go low enough, if so, use a GCODE console of some sort (Pronterface) and alter the Z height offset | + | * My Screen showed 1.6mm, I perfonally found I needed |
- | * If you want to lower the head by 0.02mm then you would issue the command "M851 Z-1.2" or to raise it by 0.02mm, its "M851 Z-0.8". Yes, INCRESING | + | * If you want to lower the head by 0.02mm then you would issue the command "M851 Z-1-8" or to raise it by 0.02mm, its "M851 Z-1.4". Yes, INCREASING |
- | - Next, do a bed level using the LCD and the print bed levelling knobs so that the bed is as level as you can get it using this method, basically proceed to set the correct 0.2mm layer height as if you don't have an IR sensor.\\ | + | - Next, do a bed level using the LCD and the print bed levelling knobs so that the bed is as level as you can get it using this method, basically proceed to set the correct 0.2mm layer height |
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G29 is the GCODE to issue a level bed routine. You can run this now I guess to see it working, but in reality, all you need to do is add the following lines AFTER your initial G28 home command in your slicing software. | G29 is the GCODE to issue a level bed routine. You can run this now I guess to see it working, but in reality, all you need to do is add the following lines AFTER your initial G28 home command in your slicing software. | ||
- | **NOTE: | + | **NOTE: Remember, any G28 Home command after this script will disable UBL again, so avoid placing G28's after this script.**\\ |
- | < | + | < |
- | M851 Z-1.7 ; Z Offset | + | |
- | M500 ; Save to Eeprom | + | |
G28 ; Home All Axis | G28 ; Home All Axis | ||
- | G29 ; Do automated probing of the bed | + | G29 P1 ; Mesh Probe Bed |
- | M500 ; | + | M500 ; Save To EEPROM |
- | M420 S1 ; Activate | + | M420 S1 ; Activate |
+ | </ | ||
And your done! From now on, the printhead will perform an automatic mesh bed level using the IR probe before every single print. | And your done! From now on, the printhead will perform an automatic mesh bed level using the IR probe before every single print. | ||
- | In standard probing mode,This adds about 30 seconds to your print time and ensures that crucial first layer goes down perfect every time! | + | In standard probing mode, This adds about 30 seconds to your print time and ensures that crucial first layer goes down perfect every time! |
- | With my ultra slow mods to get a better probe height, this takes a few minutes per probe cycle. Since we've saved the mesh to the EEPROM, you may wish to do this mesh periodically and just use the below as your start-up commands since we can call the mesh data back from EEPROM. | + | If you also performed the ultra slow mods to get a better probe height, this takes a few minutes per probe cycle. Since we've saved the mesh to the EEPROM, you may wish to do this mesh periodically and just use the below as your start-up commands since we can call the mesh data back from EEPROM. |
- | < | + | < |
- | M851 Z-1.7 ; Z Offset | + | M420 S1 ; Activate Mesh |
- | M500 ; Save to Eeprom | + | </ |
- | G28 ; Home All Axis | + | |
- | M420 S1 ; Activate the UBL System from EEPROM saved data</ | + | =====Useful Mesh Bed Levelling Commands===== |
+ | G29 - Issue this command to probe the bed and create a mesh using the IR probe\\ | ||
+ | G29 Q - Issue this command to check if mesh bed levelling is enabled\\ | ||
+ | M420 V - Issue this command to view the current mesh data (useful for comparing results)\\ | ||
+ | M500 - Save the current mesh data to EEPROM\\ | ||
+ | M503 - Show the current data in the EEPROM\\ | ||
+ | M420 S1 - Activate the mesh bed levelling | ||
- | ==== Wiring ==== | + | =====Wiring |
Hotend Sensor Wiring | Hotend Sensor Wiring | ||
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- | ==== Testing ==== | + | =====Testing |
You can test your ends top function using Pronterface, | You can test your ends top function using Pronterface, | ||
a5/bed-levelling-probe.txt · Last modified: 2020/12/25 02:13 by 127.0.0.1