a5:bed-levelling-probe
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a5:bed-levelling-probe [2019/04/03 08:06] – [Full Firmware & Hardware Modification Guide] cs2000 | a5:bed-levelling-probe [2019/04/07 02:52] – [Full Firmware & Hardware Modification Guide] cs2000 | ||
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==== IR Probe Bed Surface Compatibility==== | ==== IR Probe Bed Surface Compatibility==== | ||
- | For best results, the sensor needs to sense the reflection of the IR beam from the top surface of the bed. There is a potential problem when the sensor is used with a transparent bed material that reflects infrared light weakly and there is a surface below the transparent material that reflects IR much more strongly. | + | In order for this to work, the sensor needs to " |
- | **Glass (with or without coatings such as hairspray, PVA or Kapton tape):** Works as-is if placed directly on a PCB bed heater or other surface that does not reflect strongly. If there is an aluminium heat spreader or bed plate underneath the glass, then either paint the aluminium surface matt black as suggested above, or put a sheet of matt black paper between the glass and the aluminium. Coatings on the glass such as the Black Diamond coating affect the trigger height | + | **Glass (with or without coatings such as hairspray, PVA or Kapton tape):** Works as-is if placed directly on a PCB bed heater or other surface that does not reflect strongly. Coatings on the glass such as the Black Diamond coating affect the trigger height |
- | **PEI: | + | **PEI: |
- | **BuildTak: | + | **BuildTak: |
**PrintBite: | **PrintBite: | ||
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**Anodised aluminium, with or without PEI coating:** suitable if the finish is matt or semi-matt. | **Anodised aluminium, with or without PEI coating:** suitable if the finish is matt or semi-matt. | ||
- | **Bright Aluminium: | + | **Bright Aluminium: |
- | **Mirror: | + | **Mirror: |
**Other/Not Listed:** You will have to check yourself if your surface is transparent to IR light, an easy way to do this is with a standard TV remote control.Place your hand in front of the remote control to block the infrared signal and verify that the remote control no longer controls the TV. (Don’t wrap your hand over the front of the remote control). If the remote control still works, you may be too near the TV, you may need to back away and try blocking again. In that case, you'll need to repeat step 1 to verify the remote control works at the farther distance when it isn’t blocked. | **Other/Not Listed:** You will have to check yourself if your surface is transparent to IR light, an easy way to do this is with a standard TV remote control.Place your hand in front of the remote control to block the infrared signal and verify that the remote control no longer controls the TV. (Don’t wrap your hand over the front of the remote control). If the remote control still works, you may be too near the TV, you may need to back away and try blocking again. In that case, you'll need to repeat step 1 to verify the remote control works at the farther distance when it isn’t blocked. | ||
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+ | OPTIONAL - SLOWS DOWN PROBES FOR MORE ACCURACY | ||
**Line 717**\\ | **Line 717**\\ | ||
Original | Original | ||
< | < | ||
Change To | Change To | ||
- | < | + | < |
+ | OPTIONAL - SLOWS DOWN PROBES FOR MORE ACCURACY | ||
**Line 722**\\ | **Line 722**\\ | ||
Original | Original | ||
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=== The Glass Bed === | === The Glass Bed === | ||
- | The original developer of these mini IR boards has specifically said he designed it to work on glass, which it does but I guess since the original design with ever smaller layer heights on todays 3D printers, the deviation is just unacceptable. Youtuber Thomas Sanladerer ran tests on this sensor and found a deviation of 20 micros, or 0.02mm which is one layer height [[https:// | + | The original developer of these mini IR boards has specifically said he designed it to work on glass, which it does but I guess since the original design with ever smaller layer heights on todays 3D printers, the deviation is just unacceptable. Youtuber Thomas Sanladerer ran tests on this sensor and found a deviation of 20 micros, or 0.02mm which is one layer height [[https:// |
+ | |||
+ | The best way to fix this is to paint the glass to give the IR beam a better material to bounce back from. The exact colour of the paint doesn' | ||
- Remove the four bed levelling screws and unplug the bed connector | - Remove the four bed levelling screws and unplug the bed connector | ||
- Remove the metal clips holding the glass bed to the metal hot plate. | - Remove the metal clips holding the glass bed to the metal hot plate. | ||
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- I then sanded the entire bed with 2000 grit sandpaper to end up with a perfectly smooth matte finish, this step may be unrequired though. | - I then sanded the entire bed with 2000 grit sandpaper to end up with a perfectly smooth matte finish, this step may be unrequired though. | ||
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- | In my case, I'm also going to be adding a PrintBite build surface rather than use the Black Diamond. I've had really good experience with this over the years, works really well for PLA, ABS, PETG and loads of others. The final sandwich of layers in my case would be; | + | As mentioned above, this doesn' |
- | Heated Plate > Glass Bed (With Black Diamond coating facing down) > Print Bite build surface. | + | Heated Plate > Glass Bed (With Black Diamond coating facing down and painted surface facing up) > Print Bite build surface |
- | + | ||
- | If you're not using a different build surface, just install it back together | + | |
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Now the hard parts are done, you need to complete the setup of the IR sensor and do some testing, so lets continue. | Now the hard parts are done, you need to complete the setup of the IR sensor and do some testing, so lets continue. | ||
- | - First, we need be sure that your Z axis carriage is actually level. As the A5 uses two steppers and two threaded rods to hold the " | + | - First, we need be sure that your Z axis carriage is actually level. As the A5 uses two steppers and two threaded rods to hold the carriage in place, this can get out of alignment so one side can be higher than than the other. |
- To correct/ | - To correct/ | ||
- | - If the measurements are out, turn the printer off and use your hand to manually move the threaded rod couplers to manually | + | - If the measurements are out, turn the printer off and use your hand to manually move the threaded rod couplers to move one side up or down. It doesn' |
- Turn on the printer and using the LCD or a GCODE console such as Pronterface, | - Turn on the printer and using the LCD or a GCODE console such as Pronterface, | ||
- Use the LCD in the MOVE menu and Move Z down slowly (0.01mm steps) until the probe triggers. This is when the red LED light comes on. | - Use the LCD in the MOVE menu and Move Z down slowly (0.01mm steps) until the probe triggers. This is when the red LED light comes on. | ||
- | - Take the current Z value on the screen and negate it. (so a value shown of 1.6 becomes -1.6), this is the offset between your print Nozzle and the sensor height. | + | - Take the current Z value on the printers LCD screen and negate it. (so a value shown of 1.6 becomes -1.6), this is the offset between your print Nozzle and the sensor height. |
- | - You may find the nozzle wont go low enough, if so, use a GCODE console of some sort (Pronterface) and alter the Z height offset | + | * My Screen showed 1.6mm, I perfonally found I needed |
- | * If you want to lower the head by 0.02mm then you would issue the command "M851 Z-1.2" or to raise it by 0.02mm, its "M851 Z-0.8". Yes, INCRESING | + | * If you want to lower the head by 0.02mm then you would issue the command "M851 Z-1-8" or to raise it by 0.02mm, its "M851 Z-1.4". Yes, INCREASING |
- | - Next, do a bed level using the LCD and the print bed levelling knobs so that the bed is as level as you can get it using this method, basically proceed to set the correct 0.2mm layer height as if you don't have an IR sensor.\\ | + | - Next, do a bed level using the LCD and the print bed levelling knobs so that the bed is as level as you can get it using this method, basically proceed to set the correct 0.2mm layer height |
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G29 is the GCODE to issue a level bed routine. You can run this now I guess to see it working, but in reality, all you need to do is add the following lines AFTER your initial G28 home command in your slicing software. | G29 is the GCODE to issue a level bed routine. You can run this now I guess to see it working, but in reality, all you need to do is add the following lines AFTER your initial G28 home command in your slicing software. | ||
- | **NOTE: | + | **NOTE: Remember, any G28 Home command after this script will disable UBL again, so avoid placing G28's after this script.**\\ |
- | < | + | < |
- | M851 Z-1.7 ; Z Offset | + | |
- | M500 ; Save to Eeprom | + | |
G28 ; Home All Axis | G28 ; Home All Axis | ||
- | G29 ; Do automated probing of the bed | + | G29 P1 ; Mesh Probe Bed |
- | M500 ; | + | M500 ; Save To EEPROM |
- | M420 S1 ; Activate | + | M420 S1 ; Activate |
+ | </ | ||
And your done! From now on, the printhead will perform an automatic mesh bed level using the IR probe before every single print. | And your done! From now on, the printhead will perform an automatic mesh bed level using the IR probe before every single print. | ||
- | In standard probing mode,This adds about 30 seconds to your print time and ensures that crucial first layer goes down perfect every time! | + | In standard probing mode, This adds about 30 seconds to your print time and ensures that crucial first layer goes down perfect every time! |
- | With my ultra slow mods to get a better probe height, this takes a few minutes per probe cycle. Since we've saved the mesh to the EEPROM, you may wish to do this mesh periodically and just use the below as your start-up commands since we can call the mesh data back from EEPROM. | + | If you also performed the ultra slow mods to get a better probe height, this takes a few minutes per probe cycle. Since we've saved the mesh to the EEPROM, you may wish to do this mesh periodically and just use the below as your start-up commands since we can call the mesh data back from EEPROM. |
- | < | + | < |
- | M851 Z-1.7 ; Z Offset | + | M420 S1 ; Activate |
- | M500 ; Save to Eeprom | + | </ |
- | G28 ; Home All Axis | + | |
- | M420 S1 ; Activate | + | |
==== Wiring ==== | ==== Wiring ==== |
a5/bed-levelling-probe.txt · Last modified: 2020/12/25 02:13 by 127.0.0.1